It’s a new dawn It’s a new day It’s a new life

Days 40 to 47: Basel to Donauwörth (475km – total distance 2,127km)
This particular blog concludes from a Canoe Club in Germany which wasn’t a place we imagined we would find ourselves at during this adventure but this has been one of the most enjoyable parts of the tour – not quite knowing one day to the next where you will end up. But we pick-up the story back in the UK where we had been for a few days to see Janine’s Dad who had been unwell in hospital. Thankfully Bob’s condition had improved and we felt able to return back to Basel. Janine thanks everyone for their prayers and well wishes.

Day 40 was an early start in Birmingham on a National Express coach to Luton Airport and a flight back to Basel. Everything was on time and the efficient bus service from Basel Airport dropped off us right at the doorstep of the main rail station which was also where the hotel storing our bikes and luggage was located. There was some sort of conference in Basel that week so nearly all the hotels were fully booked so, as we had some time, we decided to ride along our route to get away from Basel. But where to stay at short notice?

As our plane taxied after landing at Basel Airport we quickly searched Airbnb and found a room for the night at a place called Rheinfelden but we didn’t have the time to do our usual research but were grateful that a responsive host accepted our booking but said we could not arrive before 5pm as he was at work. This suited our timetable. We had returned to Basel in a heatwave and after a 22km afternoon cycle in hot weather we found the apartment. The room we stayed in was perfectly nice but it turned out we were just using the spare room of a young German software engineer whose computer language skills were much better than his English language skills – nevertheless we made ourselves understood and he was a very welcoming host.

Just as we were settling in for the night Richard received an email from Basel Airport Lost Property – we have found your Kindle! Janine then realising she had left her Kindle on the EasyJet plane and thanking Richard for labeling much of our equipment with our email address – knowing our (i.e. Janine’s) propensity for losing things despite her better half saying ‘Have you got everything?”

We could only collect the Kindle in person and there was a Euro 20 ‘administration charge’ and after a week a further Euro 10 ‘storage charge’. And, of course, it was Richard’s fault for Janine forgetting because he ‘rushed’ her off the plane!

So the next morning Richard set-off early for Mission Kindle Rescue taking a train and bus back to Basel whilst Janine lay in bed waiting for our host to go to work – which turned out to be late because he overslept and rushed off with a coffee and cigarette in his hand leaving Janine to inspect the property further and realise we were basically staying in a real bachelor pad with a spare room – but it worked for us!

Richard returned to the apartment happy having charmed the lost property lady to waive the Euro 20 lost administration charge but noting the rising temperature we were keen to get going.

Despite the later start we still managed 60km on Day 41 in very hot weather to a campsite at Bad Zurzach which allowed free access to a pool complex which was very welcome. As we pitched our tent we said hello to our neighbouring cycle touring campers – a young French Canadian couple who were touring with a baby! We think the campsite owner’s wife was from Thailand as the campsite menu offered an extensive Thai menu and our Red Thai curry was a welcome change from either Goats Cheese salad or Ham and Cheese baguettes. We also enjoyed delicious ice cream sundaes which might explain why we are not losing too much weight!

Day 42 was the day we found ourselves at Schaffhausen after crossing the German/Swiss border on numerous occasions as our route followed the meanderings of the Rhine. The rising heat was tempered by the cooling air that arose from the magnificent Rhine Falls where we enjoyed our lunch.

We cycled on and found an extensive campsite right on the banks of the Rhine and after pitching our tent enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in the grounds of the campsite with numerous people enjoying the weekend weather and cooling ourselves in the river.

Later on we were even treated to some musical entertainment from a school band who we think must have also been staying at the site.

The next day saw us heading for Lake Constance (Bodensee) but not before enjoying a coffee in the lovely town of Stein am Rhein which had been recommended by one of Richard’s former work colleagues who had grown up in the area (thanks Michael!)

We managed a cooling dip in the lake before heading north about 10km to a busy campsite which squeezed us in but did not serve any dinner. So after pitching our tent and a quick Google search for a nearby eatery we jumped on our bikes to find a pizza restaurant that overlooked the grass runway of the local aero club.

The next morning we enjoyed our pre-ordered bread with coffee on the terrace at the campsite reception before setting on what we knew would be a challenging day of climbing to reach the Danube. The climb was tiring but we think the previous weeks had conditioned us well and without breaking any world records we managed it to the summit of the climb to enjoy the view and a snack before the fast descent to the town of Tuttlingen (close to the source of the Danube).

We found a chilled out cafe/bar and spent some time listening to some relaxing music whilst enjoying some drinks before making our way to the tiny town of Beuron where thanks to booking.com we found one of the town’s few hotels. It turns out the town of Beuron is known for it’s old monastery which was located next to the hotel and as we arrived we were greeted by the monastery bells ringing on the hour.

Laying in bed after a nice hotel dinner, we heard the monastery bells ring at 11pm and commented to each other that this must be the last ring before they turn the bells off for the night but we were wrong – they rang at midnight too – and every hour thereafter! We had wondered why the hotel was so empty!

On Day 45 we enjoyed riding along a particularly stunning stretch of Danube scenery against blue skies but searing heat.

We were grateful for a mainly downhill day to the town of Riedlingen where we had booked a Gasthof. After a shower and rest, we ventured into the town and found a Greek restaurant which looked popular. We sat outside and were offered the menus which were unfortunately translated to German from Greek and offered little clue as to what food was on offer – and not aided by a non-English speaking waiter. In the end it was a bit of a lucky dip where we over-ordered hoping that something came along that we liked. We felt slightly bloated walking back to our Gasthof so we must have liked most of the various dishes that arrived!

Thanks to the Sahara Bubble it was extremely hot overnight in the Gasthof – so much so that Janine slept draped in a damp towel but we awoke eager (as every morning) for another day of new sights, experiences and cycling.

Day 46 saw us reach the 2,000km mark on our way to the city of Ulm – spotting a Stork’s nest on the way.

We had planned on a shorter day in the saddle but we made good progress and decided to head for Ulm and then realised we were being chased by a thunderstorm causing Richard to increase speed and Janine trying to keep up. We made it to our hotel just as the first rain drops started to fall! And after the storm cleared we enjoyed a nice evening exploring Einstein’s birthplace and home to the world’s tallest steeple (161m).

Day 47 turned out to be our longest ever day so far in the saddle covering 97km in hot weather but mainly on the flat. However it was a tiring day and after 80km we were both desperate for a rest. Unfortunately we were on a road section of the route and there were no natural stop off points – at least until Richard spied what looked like a perfect spot – a corner of a field that had been recently mown by the edge of some woods. So we stopped off and constructed our chairs aiming to rest for 15 minutes in the shade. But no sooner had we sat down and Janine felt a mosquito bite and then so did Richard and then we both felt some more and in rather comical fashion we quickly re-packed our equipment whilst swatting away all the bugs that were descending on us! We cycled away feeling more exhausted than rested!

To add to our woes, as we were uncertain on whether we would reach our planned destination, we did not book any accommodation and found that the town of Donauwörth was busy and all the hotels booked. So we fell back to our contingency plan of the local campsite located at the local Canoe Club which didn’t sound that appealing (to Janine at least) – particular with the earlier mosquito bites still stinging. As it turned out it was a lovely little uncomplicated site and we camped right on the river banks and had an enjoyable stay with dinner from the well equipped local supermarket. We even bumped into Luke who we had met several times before and caught up on each other’s journey.

So that concludes this particular post. More pictures and updates can be found on Instagram and more blogs to follow. Despite many days on the road, we still wake each morning looking forward to the day ahead and feel very lucky to be having an extended break and enjoying such a great experience together. We are feeling good – which inspires this week’s song choice.